Madeira Island Ultra Trail - Tips for first-timers

Take note: the following text is just my take on the Madeira Island Ultra Trail course and how I think it should be managed.  It comes from my four participations on the race, from 2015 to 2018 (you can read all about it on my blog, but I'm afraid it's still portuguese only, it's a real pain in the ass translating these!). I'm not an expert, I'm just a middle of the pack runner, so if you're an elite runner this shouldn't be that interesting. This year I'll be back for my fifth race across Madeira.

We're just a couple weeks away from being in Porto Moniz, so the training is done. At this time you're spending half your day anticipating the day you're flying to Madeira. It's time to tune up your gear, plan your diet and, very important, study the course.

I know some of you don't think it's that important, you just start running and figure it out as it goes, but not me. I like to thoroughly study the course.  Stop thinking about mile X to Y and start seeing it as a multi stage race. First you have this climb, than the VK, following that technical section, that hard descent, and so on. That's what I'm about to do, explain how I divided MIUT's course and the way I think you should manage your effort.

First Stage: Porto Moniz - Estanquinhos

The first 30km, ending in Estanquinhos, are maybe the most important stage. Not for the reasons you're thinking, forget about the time barrier. My first year I obsessed about it and after came to the conclusion that it's not that tight. No, forget about time or speed, the most important thing about this 30km and almost 3000m elevation gain is to pace your effort perfectly, because any mistake during this night will certainly compromise the rest of the race.

That first hill on the elevation profile is a gift from the organization. First you'll climb 400m on a paved road and enter a really easy downhill on a very runnable trail. You won't find anything as easy as this untill the end. To avoid traffic jams as you enter the first trail, my advice is to start no too far back on the pack and then push a little on the easy uphill. In 2017 I started way back and had to walk the entire downhill because there's just too many people. It's also really important you place yourself at least in the middle of the pack because you'll be climbing the next two hills following a train of runners and you don't want to fall asleep when moving too slow.

The next two ascents, to Fanal and Estanquinhos, are absolutely insane. They're both over 1000m elevation gain and you'll be running through mud, trails e steps. Lots of steps.  Once again, pacing yourself is crucial. If you're going on a too fast train, just pull over, don't over do it. If you feel you're going to hard, you probably are. Take baby steps, think about every step you take, try not to spread your legs too much.

The Fanal control post, at the end of the first VK, isn't at the mountain's peak, when you exit it there's a bit more climbing to do and 2 or 3km before you start descending. So you'll finish a really tough uphill in the middle of the forest, you're hot and sweating and it's really easy to get cold before you start running on the descent. Be very careful, don't take too long on the control post.

The next uphill, to Estanquinhos, is even harder than the last one. Technical from bottom to top and really steep. It's the most difficult on all the course, although it won't seem that hard while you climb it. Remember you're only around 5 hours and 20km in, so your legs are still fresh. But every little mistake you make here will cost you much further ahead. The last part is on an exposed plateau, it can get really cold. Although the weather in Madeira is pretty stable, in 2018 the temperature dropped drastically here and started pouring rain. A lot of runners weren't counting on this and quit in Estanquinhos.

Second Stage:Estanquinhos - Curral de Freiras

The descent after Estanquinhos is probably one of the best you'll ever do. You'll do it around sunrise so it'll be perfect. It's relatively easy until the final section, where you'll find some steep stairs, but it's mainly easy trails and levadas (water canals, very typical in Madeira) where the only problem is to pace yourself no to go too fast. It'll be hard not to get carried away.

After this wonderful descent you'll be climbing through the first true stairs sections, including the famous MIUT green pipeline, but also some unforgettable landscapes and quite a few runnable miles, after the Encumeada control post.

Although it's fairly easy section, this is where you'll realize if you did good on the first night. My first year in MIUT this was where I knew I was screwed!

The descent to Curral de Freiras is tricky because you'll try to run fast. It starts easy but you'll find yourself breaking stone meter after meter, and it just gets steeper. It's very technical and mentally tough. Once again, try to be eficient, go slow if you have to, don't just jump around pushing it, you’ve been running all night long but it's still a long way to go. Also, remember, before getting to the life base in Curral de Freiras there's still a really steep and short climb that's an absolute nightmare for someone who's been going downhill for more than half an hour. It's the middle of the day, probably really hot. It's rough!

Third Stage: Curral de Freiras - Chão da Lagoa

Really important: at Curral de Freiras fill all your water carriers. At least 1.5L. Believe me: you will need every last bit of it. I usually carry only two soft flasks, but I'll leave one on my drop bag just so I can take on the next ascent. I can't begin to tell you how many people get out of water before reaching the summit in Pico Ruivo. And keep in mind it's an excruciating climb that follows. Not that difficult at the first 800 meters  climb, but right about when you think it must be over, and you will… oh boy, you're in for a treat. Now you're in stair heaven.

It's absolutely unbelievable. You'll feel like you're on another planet, but it's so tough it will crush your spirit. You'll climb steep stairs, up and down, time and time again. You'll walk on scary ridges, go through dark tunnels, wet your feet on icy water, and it'll just seem more and more difficult and alien. The best part? At the end f the day this 7km section will make everything worth it. Look at me, I'm about to go for my fifth round because of it!

Besides the water, there's something very important you have to keep in mind after Curral de Freiras. The Pico Ruivo control post is of very difficult access so don't expect to get much food there, unlike every other control post on this race. So you'll get a REALLY TOUGH 20km section from Curral de Freiras to Chão da Lagoa, my advice is to carry some "real food" because it's a long stretch before you get it from a control post. Don't rely on gels.

Fourth Stage: Chão da Lagoa - Machico

You'll probably make the same mistake i did, my first year. From now on it's mainly downhill, so the hard part is past us. Well, actually, it kind of is, the problem is exactly what you left behind. Something like 80km and 6500 elevation gain. Even if it was a road with 5% downhill inclination you'd find it difficult at this point. And it's not easy descents, at all. Particularly the one to Ribeiro Frio. Dark soil, lot's of roots and really steep muddy trails. Just like the next, and last, ascent, to Poiso.

When you get there, in Poiso, you can now start breathing. It really is almost over. A series of easy and runnable descents right until Larano, where it gets really tricky and steep. It'll be nerve wracking, so take your time, be cool, don't ruin everything now that you're so close.

If you reach Larano on day light you're in for a blast at the Vereda do Larano. An absolutely breathtaking  7km trail near the sea, slightly uphill but really easy and beautiful. The problem is if you get there at night, like I did every time. Than it's a never ending trail that goes uphill all the way just to fuck you up some more. My God, is it nerve wracking! It just goes on and on and it'll seem like you're running on a treadmill! …Well, ok, my memories might be a little distorted, when I reach Larano I just want to get to Machico!

The good thing is once you pass it, that's it. You're done! Just a few easy trails, some Levadas, a couple roads and Machico is at your feet. Nothing will stop you now, so call your family and have them watching the live feed. You did it, congratulations!

Hm? What's that? You still have to run it? Well, ok. I guess I'll see you there!